英國人的涼拌茄子和椒麻雞食譜：她管它們都叫salad

04 英國人的涼拌茄子和椒麻雞食譜：她管它們都叫salad

國外中餐館常提供油炸小吃作前菜，但中國人的前菜是涼拌菜。涼拌茄子和椒麻雞口味一級棒。英國人扶霞·鄧洛普(Fuchsia Dunlop)在最新力作《魚米之鄉(xiāng)：中餐烹飪精華》中為外國人介紹了這兩道經(jīng)典中餐。

In many parts of China, people like to start a meal with cool, salady appetisers rather than the deep-fried snacks typically offered in Chinese restaurants abroad.

在中國很多地方，人們喜歡用涼拌菜當(dāng)頭盤，而不是國外中餐館通常提供的油炸小吃。

In Beijing, you might be offered a bracing salad of Chinese cabbage in a mustardy sauce or some cold, spiced beef.The Shanghainese adore their drunken chicken and lotus root stuffed with sticky rice, while in Hangzhou a local favourite is Buddhist vegetarian “roast goose”, a clever trompe l'oeil made from thin, layered sheets of tofu.

在北京，頭盤可能是一盤勁爽的芥末醬拌白菜，或是一碟冷切醬牛肉。上海人則鐘愛醉雞，或是糯米糖藕。在杭州，最受當(dāng)?shù)厝藲g迎的是“素?zé)Z”——用一層層薄薄的豆腐皮做出來的一道形似燒鵝的精致小菜。

The following two recipes are easy to make and show unexpected sides of familiar ingredients.

下面這兩道菜制作容易，而且把常見食材做出了意想不到的味道。

看到這里，是不是已經(jīng)在流口水了，我們一起來學(xué)學(xué)這兩道菜的做法。

Spicy aubergine salad

涼拌茄子

Aubergines are so often deep-fried that we forget that steaming can bring out a surprising gentleness of character: here, they are torn into strips and then tossed with a quintessentially Sichuanese dressing, in which spicy, tingly, sweet, sour, salty and aromatic notes are blended to delicious effect.

我們做茄子總是油炸，以至忘了清蒸可以帶來意外的溫和口感，在這道菜中，茄子被撕成條狀，然后拌上一種典型的四川醬汁，該醬汁融合了辣、麻、甜、酸、咸、香，味道十分可口。

INGREDIENTS

食材和調(diào)料

2-3 aubergines (800g) 2-3個茄子（約800克）

2 tbs finely sliced spring onion greens注2-3大勺切好的蔥醬汁

3 tbs light soy sauce 3大勺生抽

2 tsp Chinkiang vinegar 2小勺鎮(zhèn)江香醋

1 tsp white sugar 1小勺白糖

2 tbs chilli oil 2大勺辣椒油

? tsp sesame oil 半小勺香油

1 Cut the aubergines in half lengthways and pile them into a bowl that will fit into your steamer.Place the bowl in the steamer and steam over high heat for 20 minutes.Then tip the aubergines into a colander and let any excess water drain away as they cool.

將茄子沿縱向從中切開，堆到一個碗里，碗大小與蒸鍋相配。將碗放入蒸鍋內(nèi)，上汽后大火蒸20分鐘。然后將茄子倒入濾器，在冷卻過程中濾掉所有水分。

2 When the aubergines are cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skins and any clumps of seeds (it's easiest to do this with your hands).Tear the aubergines lengthways into strips 1cm-2cm thick, and then use a knife to cut these crossways into bite-sized lengths.Place in a serving dish.

等茄子涼到可以處理時，剝下茄子皮，摘除籽塊，這一步用手更方便。將茄子縱向撕成1至2厘米粗的條狀，然后用刀橫切成一口大小的長度，再將切好的茄子段擺到餐盤里。

3 Combine all the sauce ingredients in a small bowl.

將所有調(diào)味料倒入一個小碗。

4 Mix well and then pour over the aubergines.Stir gently to mix in the sauce.Before serving, scatter with the spring onion greens.Any leftovers will also be delicious the following day.

攪拌均勻后倒在茄子上，輕輕拌開。食用前撒上切碎的綠蔥花。就算吃不完，放到第二天依然是一道美味。

Sichuan pepper chicken salad

椒麻雞

The second recipe is for chicken with one of the lesser-known sauces in the Sichuanese canon: a jiao ma (“pepper-numbing”) salsa that is not hot and fiery but cool and green, with a hint of the fruity tingle of Sichuan pepper.The pepper appears here not with chilli, its usual partner in crime, but with the fresh pungency of spring onions and the fragrance of sesame oil.

第二道菜的主料是雞肉，用了一種較少為人所知的四川經(jīng)典醬汁——椒麻汁。這種醬汁與那些火紅、熱辣的醬汁不同，它色澤鮮綠，口味清爽，還透著一絲青花椒的清新刺激。椒麻汁只用了青花椒，沒用辣椒——花椒的邪惡搭檔——但加入了青蔥的鮮辛，和麻油的香氣。

The sauce is rarely seen on Sichuan restaurant menus these days, but it's one of the classic combinations of flavours, and a reminder that Sichuanese cuisine is about variety more than simply red-hot chilli heat.Typically served with cold chicken or pork offal, it would also go beautifully with warm new potatoes.

現(xiàn)在四川餐館的菜單上已經(jīng)很少能看到椒麻汁，但它是經(jīng)典的調(diào)味組合之一，而且提醒人們川菜的精神在于豐富多樣，而不是簡單的火紅熱辣。椒麻汁通常搭配冷雞肉或豬內(nèi)臟，配溫乎的新土豆也是一級棒。

INGREDIENTS

食材和調(diào)料

600g cooked, cooled chicken meat 600克燉熟、晾涼的雞肉醬汁

1-2 bunches tender, juicy spring onions 1-2根鮮嫩多汁的青蔥

? tsp whole Sichuan pepper 半小勺純正四川辣椒

2 tbs light soy sauce 2大勺生抽

6 tbs cooled chicken stock 6大勺冷卻的雞湯

2 tbs sesame oil 2大勺香油

1 Take a 15g piece of unpeeled ginger and one spring onion, white part only, and smack them gently with the flat of a cleaver blade or a rolling pin to loosen.Place the whole chicken in a saucepan large enough to hold it but without much room around the sides.Cover with cold water.Bring to the boil over a high flame, add the ginger and spring onion, then turn the heat down so low that the surface of the water barely murmurs.Leave for about 30 minutes, until the chicken is just cooked through (lift it out on to a plate and insert a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh: when the juices run clear, it's done).Remove from the liquid (which can serve as stock in a sauce like the one above, or as a soup base).Set aside to cool.

取一塊15克未削皮的生姜，一根青蔥（只要蔥白），用菜刀刀面或搟面杖將蔥姜輕輕拍散。將整雞放入一口大小剛好的燉鍋中，鍋內(nèi)不要有太多剩余空間，倒入冷水沒過雞肉。大火煮至水沸，加入姜塊蔥段，然后關(guān)小火，水面略咕嘟著冒泡即可。雞肉煮熟需要大約30分鐘。（將雞肉盛出到盤子里，用一根烤肉叉插到雞腿最粗部位，如果流出來的是清湯，就是煮好了。）煮過的雞湯倒出備用，既可以用作上道菜醬汁里的高湯，又可以當(dāng)做湯底。雞肉放涼待用。

2 Cover the Sichuan pepper in cold water and let it soak as you prepare the other ingredients.Cut or tear the chicken into bite-sized pieces and place in a serving dish.Wash the spring onions and finely slice the green parts only.Place them on a chopping board with the drained Sichuan pepper and a pinch of salt.Use a sharp knife or a mezzaluna to chop them extremely finely.Place 4 tbs of the spring onion mixture in a small mixing bowl.Add the soy sauce, chicken stock and sesame oil and mix well.Pour the sauce over the chicken.Mix well before eating.

將青麻椒浸入冷水中，浸泡期間準(zhǔn)備其他配料。雞肉切或撕成一口大小的小條，擺入餐盤中。青蔥洗凈后切下綠葉部分。將蔥葉與浸泡后的青花椒放到案板上，撒少許鹽，拿一把鋒利的刀或半月形菜刀(mezzaluna)將它們切碎。再將4湯匙蔥椒碎末放入一個小碗里，加入醬油、雞湯和香油攪拌均勻。把醬汁倒在雞肉上，吃前拌勻。

看完這兩道菜譜，你是不是已經(jīng)坐不住了呢，親自下廚試一試吧！

詞匯總結(jié)

appetizer ['?pitaiz?]

n.吊胃口的東西；開胃食品（等于appetizer）

In many parts of China, people like to start a meal with cool, salady appetisers rather than the deep-fried snacks typically offered in Chinese restaurants abroad.

在中國很多地方，人們喜歡用涼拌菜當(dāng)頭盤，而不是國外中餐館通常提供的油炸小吃。

bracing ['bre?s??]

adj.令人振奮的；涼爽的

In Beijing, you might be offered a bracing salad of Chinese cabbage in a mustardy sauce or some cold, spiced beef.在北京，頭盤可能是一盤勁爽的芥末醬拌白菜，或是一碟冷切醬牛肉。

quintessentially [,kwinti'sen??li]

adv. 典型地，標(biāo)準(zhǔn)地

tingly ['t??ɡli]

adj.刺痛的，愜意的，麻辣的

They are torn into strips and then tossed with a quintessentially Sichuanese dressing, in which spicy, tingly, sweet, sour, salty and aromatic notes are blended to delicious effect.

茄子被撕成條狀，再拌上一種典型的四川醬汁, 該醬汁融合了辣、麻、甜、酸、咸、香，味道十分可口。

pungency ['p?nd??nsi]

n.辛辣，刺激

The pepper appears here not with chilli, its usual partner in crime, but with the fresh pungency of spring onions and the fragrance of sesame oil.

椒麻汁只用了青花椒，沒用辣椒——花椒的邪惡搭檔——但加入了青蔥的鮮辛，和麻油的香氣。