今天華盛頓的新建筑都是按照朗方少校早年的城市規(guī)劃和街道設計而設置的,從而使華盛頓成為世界上最宏偉壯觀的城市之一。它也差不多是唯一的一座在建造之前就按首都設計的城市。如果覺得擁有這樣的首都值得驕傲,那就驕傲吧。因為它值得人們?yōu)樗械津湴痢?nbsp;
86 RAINBOWS AND GRAPE-VINES彩虹和葡萄酒
“Now who will stand on either hand,
And keep the bridge with me?”
WHEN I was a boy, my favorite poem was “Horatius at the Bridge.” What a thrill I got whenever my father read aloud the story of the brave Roman and his two companions who held back a whole army while the bridge was being cut down to save the city! I even knew parts of the poem by heart, without trying at all to memorize them.
Horatius at the Bridge; every one knows the story of Horatius. Not so many know the story of the Bridge.
It was the first bridge in Rome, and when “the dauntless three” stood there with flashing swords and mocked the whole invading army, it was the only bridge in Rome. It was a wooden bridge, one that could be cut down with axes, and it was so important to Rome that it was in charge of priests. We are told that when a new bridge was built, after Horatius and the old bridge had saved the city, the priests themselves built it.
Have you ever heard the Pope spoken of as the Supreme Pontiff? Supreme Pontiff is one of his titles. Would you ever guess that this title of the Pope came from the bridge that Horatius defended? The chief priest in ancient Rome was called the Pontifex Maximus, which in English means the Greatest Bridge Builder. He was called this because he was chief of those in charge of the bridge. So pontifex, or pontiff, came to mean priest, and that is why the Supreme Pontiff or Bridge Builder is one of the Pope’s titles.
The pont part of pontiff turns up in another strange use. Try to imagine what Horatius would have thought if he had suddenly seen a seaplane flying overhead, its propeller roaring, its pontoons glistening in the sun. A pontoon is a kind of boat used to hold up a bridge. A bridge across boats is called a pontoon bridge. And so the pontoons that hold a seaplane upon the water got their name because they are like the boats that hold up a pontoon bridge.
And now I’d better tell you what kinds of bridges there are. There aren’t as many different kinds as you might think. Really there are only five kinds, and that’s a good thing because you can easily learn those five, and then you can name any kind of bridge you see.
Here they are:
Number One is the simple beam bridge. A log across a stream is the simplest kind of a simple beam bridge.
Number Two is the arch. A rainbow would make a beautiful arch bridge, if you could only walk across it. The Chinese have some beautiful arch bridges.
Number Three is the suspension bridge. A wild grape-vine stem that hangs from one tree to another is a good suspension bridge—for a monkey.
Number Four has the hardest name to remember. It is the cantilever bridge. If you have a board you can make a cantilever bridge. Hold the board by one end so it just reaches across to the table, but don’t let it rest on the table. Then the board is a cantilever bridge. A cantilever is a simple beam supported at one end, something like a diving board. Often the bridge has a cantilever coming from both banks of a stream and meeting in the middle.
Number Five is the truss bridge. A truss bridge has its beams strengthened by a stiff framework of different parts fastened together. The framework may either rise above the roadway of the bridge or be beneath it. The frame of a bicycle is something like a truss. Cantilever bridges are often built with trusses. Most truss bridges are built of wood or iron or steel.
These are the five kinds of bridges. What about pontoon bridges? Pontoon bridges are just simple beam bridges with the beams resting on boats instead of on posts or piers.
The earliest bridges were, naturally, beam bridges. Xerxes of Persia, a great king, built a pontoon bridge across the Hellespont when he came to fight the Greeks in 480 B.c.
Strange to say, the Greeks, who could build a perfect building like the Parthenon, were not bridge builders. They traveled by boat more than by road and so they needed few bridges. Then too, the rivers of Greece are generally small enough to be crossed without a bridge, though the Greeks probably got their feet wet in crossing.
That brings us back to the Romans, the greatest bridge builders until modern times. All roads led to Rome, and the roads had many bridges. Not only in Italy but in Spain and France, in England and in Austria, the fine Roman bridges helped the traveler to get where he wanted to go. Many of the Roman bridges are still standing, are still in use after two thousand years of service. Some were of wood and of course they disappeared long ago, but most of them were built of stones so well fitted together that often no mortar was needed.
The biggest Roman bridges were not meant to carry people, however. They were bridges to carry water. If you had wanted to take a bath in ancient Greece you would have had to carry the water in jars from the stream or well or else use the stream for a bath tub. But in a Roman city many of the houses had running water and there were also public bath houses where you could bathe in beautiful indoor swimming pools full of fresh, clear water. All this water was brought to town by long aqueducts, stone bridges with a trough on top. These aqueducts went across country for miles from the mountain streams to the city.
When an aqueduct came to a valley it didn’t go dipping down into the valley and then up on the other side. It went straight across—as a very high bridge indeed. The Romans couldn’t make water pipes very well and so if the aqueducts had gone down hill and then up again, the water would have spilled out at the bottom of the dip. The bestknown aqueduct is now the famous ruin called the Pont du Gard over the river Gard near Nîmes in France.
After the fall of the Roman Empire, bridge building had a fall too. For years and years during the Dark Ages very few bridges were built. Then in the twelfth century A.D. a strange thing happened. Bridges throughout Europe went back to the care of priests. Only, the priests this time were Christian priests. They formed a society called the Brothers of the Bridge.
At first the Brothers of the Bridge just kept little inns at river crossings, where travelers might stop. But soon they built their own bridges at these places. Often the Brothers made the roadway over the bridge so narrow at the middle of the bridge that only one horseman could cross at a time. This was to make it hard for robbers and soldiers to dash across and attack travelers. Of course such bridges weren’t much good for wagons, but the roads weren’t much good for wagons, either. Many of these bridges were strongly fortified with huge stone towers at each end, so that they could stop robber bands or even armies from crossing.
NO.86-1 A MEDIEVAL BRIDGE CAHORS,
FRANCE
(法國卡奧爾一座中世紀的橋)
Courtesy of Pratt Institute
Probably the most famous bridge of the Middle Ages was the old London Bridge over the river Thames. It had houses built on it, some of them four and five stories high, but its foundations weren’t very solid and so it was always needing repairs. Parts of it even fell down at various times. You remember “London Bridge is Falling Down”? At that, it lasted, with many repairs, from 1209 to 1831, when it was torn down to make way for the new London Bridge.
As you know, after the Middle Ages came the Renaissance, when many famous bridges were built. I’d like to tell you about some of them if I had more space—about the most photographed bridge in the world, the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, and about the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, and about the oldest bridge in Paris, which is still called the Pont Neuf or the New Bridge, and about the Pont Royal and the Pont Marie, also in Paris. All these are stone bridge.
Modern bridge building began with the railroads, about 1830. At that time iron bridges were built. Then came steel bridges, and finally concrete and reinforced concrete bridges. Reinforced concrete bridges have iron bars inside the concrete to make them stronger. Many handsome reinforced concrete bridges have been built in recent years. Generally, they are arch bridges—sometimes with one arch and sometimes with many. In the United States they are the favorite road bridges.
No.86-2 BROOKLYN BRIDGE OVER THE EAST RIVER, NEW YORK
(紐約東河上的布魯克林橋)
Photograph by Ewing Galloway
The iron and steel bridges are often truss bridges. In fact, truss bridges are altogether modern.
Some of the earliest bridges in Asia and South America were suspension bridges. These were hung from cables of rope or vine and were pretty shaky. Some of them are still in use. When you cross one you can’t help hoping you’ll get over alive. Really they are quite strong in spite of being so shaky. But I’d hate to try to cross one on an elephant —or in an automobile.
Modern suspension bridges are hung from steel cables. Most of them are very large and cost millions of dollars to build. One of the most famous is the Brooklyn Bridge over the East River at New York. Bigger ones have been built since, but this grandfather of modern suspension bridges is still considered one of the finest to look at. It could carry whole herds of elephants in safety. It does in fact carry herds of street cars and automobiles.
When you go for a trip next time, keep your eyes open for bridges. Many of the finest bridges in the world are right here in the United States. Some travelers play games with bridges as they travel along. In this game a suspension bridge counts 20 points, a cantilever bridge 15 points, an arch bridge 10 points, a truss bridge 5 point and a simple beam bridge 2 points. Sometimes when you go over a bridge you can’t see what kind of bridge it is. All you can see are the railing and the roadway. That would count only one point. Whoever sees the bridge first, gets the points.
Last of all, I’ll tell you this. All bridges aren’t beautiful, but there are probably fewer ugly bridges than anything else we build; and even ugly bridges generally have an interesting story, if you can find out what it is. One of the ugliest bridges is in Barnstable, England. It has many arches, each one a different size. The size was not planned by an architect, but was determined by the amount of money every citizen donated.
No.86-3 SKY-SCRAPERS OF NEW YORK(紐約的摩天大廈)
Photograph by Brown Brothers
“現(xiàn)在,誰愿意單手倒立,
和我一起托起這座大橋?”
我小時候,最喜歡讀的一首詩是“橋上的霍拉提烏斯”。斷橋救城,羅馬英雄和他的兩伙伴阻擋了整個敵軍的進攻!每當我爸朗讀這一段故事時,我就特別興奮!詩中有幾段我已爛熟于心,毫不費勁就能背出來。
橋上的霍拉提烏斯;每個人都知道霍拉提烏斯的故事,但并不是許多人都知道那座橋的故事。
那可是羅馬的第一座橋,“三勇士”手握亮劍,佇立橋頭,嘲笑不斷逼近的敵軍。它也是羅馬的唯一的一座橋。
這是一座木橋,用斧頭就能砍斷??伤鼘α_馬來說太重要了,所以就由祭司負責看管。據(jù)說霍拉提烏斯和那座老橋在保住了羅馬城之后,祭司們親手造了一座新橋。
你有沒有聽說過,教皇是被當做“祭司長”來看待的?而祭司長只是一個頭銜。你能想到教皇的這個頭銜起源于霍拉提烏斯和他護橋的故事嗎?古羅馬當時的祭司長名叫龐蒂菲克斯·馬克瑟穆斯(Pontifex Maximus),英語的意思是“最偉大的造橋者”。人們這樣稱呼他,因為他是當年造橋的主要負責人。因此“龐蒂菲克斯”(pontifex)或“龐蒂菲”(pontiff),就開始有了“祭司”(priest)的意思,這也是為什么“祭司長”或“造橋者”成了教皇的頭銜。
而pontiff中的pont又出現(xiàn)在另一個奇怪的用法中。想象一下,如果霍拉提烏斯突然看到一架水上飛機從頭頂飛過,螺旋槳轟轟作響,“浮筒”(pontoons)在太陽下閃閃發(fā)光,他會想到什么呢?浮筒曾是一種用來支撐橋的小船。橫搭在小船上的橋叫做“浮橋”。而在水上托起水上飛機的浮筒就是這樣得名的,因為它們看起來像是支撐浮橋的小船。
現(xiàn)在我最好還是介紹一下橋的種類。它們并沒有想象的那么多。實際上只有五種橋,太好了,因為就五種也就便于了解,好讓我們看到哪種都能認得。
五種橋如下:
第一種最簡單,叫獨木橋。而最簡單的獨木橋就是在小溪上橫擔一根木頭。
第二種是拱橋。彩虹會造一座美麗的拱橋,只不過人不能從上面走過。中國有許多好看的拱橋。
第三種是吊橋。對猴子來說,攀在兩棵樹之間野葡萄藤是一種再好不過的吊橋。
第四種橋的名稱有點難記。它叫做懸臂橋。拿塊木板,搭座懸臂橋看看。握住木板的一端,將另一端剛好碰到桌邊,但不要放在桌上。這樣木板就成了懸臂橋。懸臂橋是一種只在一頭固定的獨木橋。有點像游泳池跳水用的跳板。通常情況下,懸臂從溪流的兩岸伸出,在中間會合。
第五種是桁架橋。桁架橋指橋梁靠堅固的框架將各個部分牢牢固定。框架既可以按在橋面上方,也可以按在橋下,有點像自行車的車架。懸臂橋通常需要桁架來支撐。桁架橋可以是木制的,也可以用鋼鐵作材料。
就這五種橋。怎么沒有談到浮橋呢?其實浮橋就是最簡易的獨木橋,只不過沒把橋梁擔在橋墩上而是搭在船上。
最早的橋當然是獨木橋。偉大的波斯王薛西斯于公元前480年攻打希臘時,造了一座橫跨達達尼爾海峽的浮橋。
奇怪的是,曾經建造過像帕臺農神廟那樣完美建筑的希臘人卻不會造橋。他們旅行時喜歡乘船,不喜歡走路,所以就不怎么需要橋。而且希臘的河流都非常窄,沒有橋也能過,盡管有時可能要濕腳過河。
這又將我們帶回到了羅馬。羅馬人直到現(xiàn)代還能算作最偉大的造橋者。條條大路通羅馬,羅馬路上都有橋。不但在意大利,就是在西班牙、法國、英國和奧地利,漂亮的羅馬式大橋幫助了行人到達目的地。
羅馬人造的橋有許多在使用了兩千年后至今還依然挺立。那些木橋當然早就不在了,大多數(shù)是石橋,那些石塊緊緊地銜合在一起,基本上不需要用灰泥加固。
然而羅馬的那些大橋原來并不是讓人行走,而是用來引水的。在古希臘,你要是想洗澡,就不得不用水罐子到河邊或井里打水,或者就直接把小溪當浴缸。不過在屬羅馬的城里,許多房子都裝上了自來水,也有公共澡堂,供人們在這盛滿清澈溪水的漂亮室內游泳池里盡情地沐浴。所有的水都是由長長的高架渠和頂端開槽的石橋引進城的。這些高架渠綿延鄉(xiāng)間數(shù)英里,引山泉入城。
當高架渠途徑山谷時,并沒有爬上爬下,而是直跨山谷——真像一座高架橋。羅馬人不大會造水管,所以要是讓高架渠順著山勢上下的話,水就會在底部產生倒流。最有名的高架渠要算法國境內尼姆城附近加爾河上著名的“加德橋高架渠”遺跡。
羅馬帝國衰敗后,橋梁建筑也衰落了。整個黑暗時期幾乎就沒怎么造橋。接下來到公元12世紀,出現(xiàn)了一個奇怪的現(xiàn)象。歐洲所有的橋梁都回歸祭司管理。而這個時期的祭司都是信仰基督教的神職人員。他們成立了一個社團組織,叫做“橋梁兄弟會”。
一開始,橋梁兄弟會只在河岔渡口開設幾家小客棧,供行人歇腳。但不久他們就在這些地方動手造橋。他們通常會把橋中間的路面修得很窄,一次只過單人匹馬。這樣一來,強盜和兵丁就很難快速過橋搶劫行人。當然,四輪馬車碰到這種橋和這樣的路就麻煩大了。這些橋大多在兩頭建有高大的石塔作碉堡加強守衛(wèi),可以及時阻止強盜團伙,甚至阻擋敵軍過橋。
中世紀最著名的橋也許要算那座泰晤士河上的倫敦古橋了。橋上還建有房子,有些達四五層樓高,但橋墩不太結實,所以就老是要修繕。橋的某些部位都塌過好多次了。你還記得《倫敦橋在坍塌》那首歌嗎?唱的就是倫敦橋經過多次維修,從1209年維持到1831年,終于被拆,并在此建立了新倫敦橋。
正像你所知道的那樣,中世紀之后便是文藝復興時期,在此期間,人們造了許多名橋。如果篇幅夠的話,我會做些介紹——像世界上最值得拍照的威尼斯嘆息橋、佛羅倫薩的韋基奧橋、至今還被稱作新橋的巴黎最古老的納夫橋以及巴黎的皇家橋和瑪麗橋。所有這些橋都是石橋。
現(xiàn)代橋梁建筑始于1830年左右的鐵路建設。那時先造的鐵橋,接著造了鋼橋,最后是鋼筋混凝土橋。鋼筋混凝土橋是在混凝土里摻雜鐵塊,使橋更堅固。近年來人們建造了許多漂亮的鋼筋混凝土橋??偟恼f來,它們都是拱橋——有的是單拱,有的是多拱。在美國它們是最受歡迎的路橋。
鐵橋和鋼橋通常都是桁架橋。事實上,桁架橋基本上都是現(xiàn)代的。
亞洲和南美洲最早的一批橋都是吊橋。它們懸掛在用繩索或藤蔓做的纜繩上,搖搖晃晃的。有些至今還在使用。在過吊橋時,人總會忍不住地指望能平安無事地走過去。除了搖晃之外,它們其實是很結實的。但再結實我也不想試著騎大象過橋,也不愿開小車過橋。
現(xiàn)代吊橋都是吊在鋼纜上的。大部分都很大,造價好幾百萬美金。其中最著名的一座就是紐約東河上的布魯克林橋。盡管后來又造了一些更大的橋,但這座現(xiàn)代吊橋的始祖仍然被認為是最耐看的吊橋之一。成群的大象在上面跑都沒有問題。事實上,橋上每天都是車水馬龍。
下次有機會出門旅游時,你可要睜大眼睛多看看橋啊。世界上許多漂亮的橋都在美國。有些旅行者在旅途中玩橋牌游戲。在游戲中,吊橋算20分,懸臂橋15分,拱橋10分,桁架橋5分,獨木橋2分。有時候你過了橋卻沒看出是哪種橋。只看到橋上的欄桿和橋面的只能得1分。誰先看出橋種類的,誰得分。